A fresh new "look" for 2009

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Sapa, Northwest of Hanoi (Day 5)

Arriving from Ninh Binh to Hanoi yesterday evening, we were off to Sapa on a night train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, the town just before Sapa. We bought berth train tickets and managed to get a few winks on the way there. The rooms are not huge, but comfortably spacious with two double decks on each side. We had a Scottish lady and an Aussie bloke as bunk mates. 

Playing a game of scrabble to kill of time

We arrived in Lao Cai at about 6am and had to weave our way through the swarm of touts to get a reasonable ticket to get from Lao Cai to Sapa. We ended up in a 12 seater van that eventually took more than 14 people! 

Sapa to our delight is a very gorgeous region. Mountainous in terrain, the little town serves as the foothill to Vietnam’s highest peak – Fansipan. Fog was thick today and visibility was not at it’s optimum – even then the views were breathtaking. We checked into our “boutique” hotel – Baguette and Chocolat. At USD18 per night we were treated to a large room with cozy interior. The tiny hotel has only 4 guestrooms and on the ground floor, as the name suggest, it’s a really nice bakery. All their desserts and pastries are tainted with French flavor. 

After a long shower and a short nap, we headed to the town square where tiny stalls were set up. Sapa is also home to the Black Hmong and Red Dzao minority groups. The markets are where they sell their handmade embroidery, bags, belts and such. Even the Black Hmongs have caught onto the bad habit of Vietnamese touting. They will approach you from all sides asking us to “buy something from me please”. 

After a few turns and block turns around the town, we figured that the only thing these minority groups are taught to remember in English are “buy something from me”, “money money”, “where you from?”. Even children as young as 3 or 4 would repeat the same phrases! 

2km from Sapa is the Cat Cat Village where most of the Black Hmongs live. The walk down was mostly downhill (piece of cake), but wherever there is a downhill, there is also an uphill! The walk into the village was worth every penny spent – oh yes, they also charge an entrance fee of 15,000d (about RM5). 

We saw how these village people lived – just bare necessities. Some huts had electricity, some didn’t. Children were running around in dirty clothing many times filled with tatters. Their faces often smudged with mud and dirt. They are also left to play on their own while their mothers walked around selling handmade products and then settling down chatting with other women. Men are rarely seen doing any work, perhaps they play different roles in this culture. Animals like dogs, pigs, ducks and chicken roam freely around the village. Aside from selling handmade products, the Black Hmongs sold fresh produce to make a living. Paddy fields and veggie plots are seen all around the village. They have ingenious water systems to keep the plants well watered. Amazing I tell you! 

Settling for an early dinner, we filled our stomachs once again with hot steaming Pho. It was one of the best we’ve had so far here in Vietnam. As sides we had street barbeque meat on skewers. After what we discovered in the Ninh Binh market, this time we were sure to ask what meat it was before ordering! I wasn’t ready to try any dog meat after the haunting sight of two dog skulls at the market! 

A Rainy Adventure (Day 4)

Our last day in Ninh Binh before we head back to Hanoi and onto Sapa. Woke up nice and early as sunrise was about 5ish. Breakfast as usual – baguette and omelette and Terence tried something different, pancakes with banana and honey. It was a good thing we had a filling breakfast as the day proofed to be energy draining.

The weather today was a disappointment – it drizzled the entire day, with little sun light and lots of fog. Visibility was poor on the road but we were determined to get on the bike to visit at least one village.

21kms from the hotel, Kenh Ga boasted of its floating village and narrow canals along the main river stream. The ride there was an adventure in itself. From the main highway we turned into narrow gravel roads, dirt terrain along paddy fields and rich vegetation. Did I just mention dirt roads – after being here for 4 days, I can officially say that Vietnam is full of dust. It’s everywhere, on cars, bikes, shops, alley ways – you name it!



Getting to Kenh Ga, was a mean feat as we stopped a ‘million’ times to ask for directions. Since locals can’t speak English, directions were almost incomprehensible. All they could do was point and advice us in Vietnamese. It was a great relief to finally reach the village after 45mins on the bike.

We paid 40,000d per person and hopped onto a mean looking motor boat. The ride started, I was expecting lots of life but only found ourselves cruising into a quiet village small houses on the right and left. The weather wasn’t helping either as it was freezing cold with droplets of rain coming into the boat with winds billowing. There wasn’t much to shout about, perhaps Lonely Planet overrated this place.













After 1½ hours in the boat, we decided to head back to the hotel with not much time to spare as our van back to Hanoi was in the afternoon. The rain got heavier and this time we used raincoats – it was a smart move but not enough to keep us dry. Back down the narrow alley, this time puddles of water formed on the roads. Terence had to swerve to avoid muddy splashes – he did quite well except for one or two.

Alas we survived the rain, unfamiliar terrain and merciless traffic. Here’s a victory picture after the “war” on the road.

From Hanoi to Ninh Binh (Day 3)

We exited the city for some needed peace and quiet. Ninh Binh was where we headed to.

We hopped on a tour van heading down south and they dropped us off at Ninh Binh enroute. It’s almost a three hour ride there. We made one stop at a highway souvenir shop that sold everything overpriced. These highway stops are one of the reasons why we stay clear of tours. They will try to con and fish whatever money you have from selling super expensive drinks to excessively priced souvenirs! Touts swamped at us the moment we got off the van selling plastic bags of mandarin oranges for USD2! Skeptics as we are, we both think they probably plucked the mandarins from stray trees. Did we say we do not fancy going on tours?!

Ninh Binh is a quiet town with its own affections. There’ plenty to do here from canal rides to trekking at the Cuc Phong National Park to visiting the local floating village. Not to mention Ninh Binh is has more than a handful of temples that come in all shapes and sizes. We soon found out that behind every limestone cave there’s bound to be one of two.

Without hesitation this time, I agreed to sit pillion while Terence rode the bike to explore the small town. We hired a motorcycle from our hotel, got hold of a map as it was definitely necessary. Sign boards are sparse and people literally remember roads by landmarks such as a mountain or a small bridge! Having two choices at hand – Tam Coc or Thrang An cave, we decided on the latter. Tam Coc as locals put is a lot more touristy and less serene. Thrang An on the other hand is quieter and more peaceful, and definitely less touts. We scooted our way down about 20kms, paid 60,000d per person and was ushered to a small green boat with a lady rower. We were both so amazed by her endurance and strength and did I mention, her muscles must have been that of Mike Tyson!

The canal ride took us about 2 ½ hours cruising along narrow rivers and into 4-5 different caves. Towering limestone mountains hovered over us. The ride into the caves was something else as the canals were extremely narrow at certain times and we had to watch our heads while careening in. The waters were green and emerald. Little life was found in the water, only a variety of sea weeds and grass. We were rewarded with sights of mountain goats and white stalks along the way. Hopping in and off the boat we climbed to different temples, that was where we discovered that all the trails led to one temple or another. Nonetheless the climb was worth it just for a stretch.



























The hotel receptionist advised us to be back before nightfall, that’s about 530pm. Since we still had an hour to spare, we whizzed around the town to look for some street food. After some rounds and corners we found a night market tucked away in an alley. We didn’t get any street food from the market but we caught some bizarre pictures of what they sold in the market. Take a look!




They sell DOGS!

A Not-so Christmas in Hanoi (Day 2)

Blessed Christmas everyone! It sure doesn’t feel like Christmas as we started roaming the streets up and early in the morning. People are onto their own business. Where we stayed – the Old Quarters there are rows and rows of shop houses each specializing in their separate trades. There were some shops selling silk & linen, others selling flowers, still others displaying all kinds of stainless steel tools and wares. Sandwich in between these shops are Pho (noodles in Vietnamese) stalls. They need little to operate a business like that, just a large pot, some bowls and chairs for sitting. Locals often sit in a circle slurping in hot soup and chatting up. Life is busy and laid back at the same time.

The weather is awesome! It’s cold and chilly about 12c – perfect weather for long walks. After a simple breakfast of French baguette, cheese and jam, we headed to the Ho Chin Minh Mausoleum. It took us about 30 minutes from the Old Quarters. Along the roads our senses were captivated by many sights and sounds.

This is how Vietnamese read the newspapers










You decide - frog legs or chicken feet?

As we approached the mausoleum complex, the entire landscaped changes, from the hectic wheezing of vehicles and endless shop houses, it turned into this open air flat ground with hand trimmed gardens and uniform guards keeping watch over the entire area. Upon entry, we had to surrender our bags and hand carry items as security is extremely tight. We walked steadily towards the mausoleum as uniform guards sternly looked on. Timing was great because we managed to witness the change of guards. Then we were summoned to enter, keeping a respectful composure, one is not allowed to talk, laugh or even whisper. Guards are positioned at every corner making sure no hanky panky goes on. Mr. Ho’s body lied peacefully in a clear window casket as visitors walked paid their respect. Locals revered him much as they bowed and clasped their hands together before exiting the hall. Despite knowing little about Mr. Ho, there was some kind of aura while in the mausoleum.

Later we visited two other museums around the vicinity – Ho Chin Minh’s Musuem and the Army Museum. Much of it was about the Vietnam war and how the French invaded Vietnam and later Vietnam fought back for its independence. Patriotism is raw and uninhibited – from the menacing looking guards along the roads to the way locals speak of such love for their country.

We roamed the streets a bit more before sitting down for some street food. This was really one of a kind. We stumbled upon a group of people seemingly squatting but actually sitting on extremely low stools. Just a hand-stretch away from them sat this lady with a pail of coals and a hot pan with oil. She would tossed long white rectangular shaped tofu into the hot oil and carried on with snipping some other dough like thing. Intrigued by what the sight and smell we sat down for a meal. Our platter came with hot tofu, noodle cake which was cold, veggies on the side and two bowls of sauces; one tasting like some fermented yam juice and the other like lime. It was quite tasty but later made my stomach also quite queasy!

We made our way to the Hoa Lo prison situated in the middle of the city. A small prison but definitely worth the visit. Clay like prisoners was crafted to depict a real life scene of how they would have looked like in the 1930’s. We entered the “hell of hells” made up of two separate cubicles with the width enough to fit only one skinny person. The nastiest of all criminals would end up in this dungeon, strapped at the feed, with no light and no room to move. We learned about political prisoners who for the love of their country got thrown into prison to endure ruthless torture. We saw how unbearable prison life can be and how inhuman people can become even to their own kind.

Moving forward from gruesome stories, we retreated to the Ho Kiem Lake a famous walkabout for locals and tourist. It’s a peaceful spot to escape given the endless buzz in the city. Even around the lake there was a lot of activity going around; people exercising, ice cream sellers, couples cuddling and touts trying to sell you someone or another.

Since it’s Christmas, Lonely Planet suggested that we hopped over the St. Joseph’s Cathedral to see what’s happening. Nothing much really (much to our disappointment), they had a Mass going on and lots of motorbikes surrounding the place. Not an unusual scene. We went on to have more Pho instead… and later some “spectacular” street side corn for dessert.

Hanoi - Here we come! (Day 1)

Crashing our heads to rest at around 12mignight, we are greatly relieved that we arrived at our hotel in one piece! Just an hour ago we had been bracing the worst traffic ever experienced. Every foot forward is a tango between motorcycles, cyclos, bicycles, cars and busses. Honks of all types are installed into these vehicles as they crank up an irritating orchestra all along the streets. 

Carrying our back packs we were determined to find our way to the hotel by foot. Unfortunately Hanoi at night is a nightmarish maze of traffic and escaping touts. We ended up cramming onto a motorbike with our backpacks and holding onto dear life as a young bloke brought us to the hotel. We are still in disbelief how 3 adults and 2 full size backpacks made it here safe and sound!